Capescape

TABLE MOUNTAIN - MY INSPIRATION!

2011-10-20T01:17:00.000-07:00

A fortress, a sleeping goddess, the stairway to heaven, guardian of Cape Town, a warrior and watcher of the south. It lends itself to being the central character in many strange tales from the furthest south-west point in Africa.

This is my inspiration....

As life continues we seem to find some places more attractive towards deep thought than others. Some places, in fact, seem to encourage thoughts and inspire great insights – in short; they are places of power and enlightenment.

This is one of those places.....

Table Mountain is a special place. It is not only an icon for the Western Cape and South Africa, but also a spiritual centre that uplifts those who live and work in its shadow, and who take to the mountain for recreation and to escape the shackles of everyday life. Nowhere else in the world is there such a dramatic mountain only minutes from the centre of a vibrant, cosmopolitan city. The mountain is majestic, moody and alluring.

It is hard to describe the feeling you get as you summit the top of the mountain, although not a very high mountain, it still rejuvenates the soul.

One feels the energy that vibrates from the rocks below your feet, the quietness around, the faint trickle of water and the freshness of being where not many people get to.

Towering over the city, knowing you in one of the most beautiful places in the world....The city below your feet vibrates tears of struggle, cries of laughter, noise of everyday life, frustrated energy and you yet again are reminded of life’s journey and that it is worth living to the fullest......

You are on top of the world....the best place to be, the only place you want to be, and take time to refresh your soul, your life, your thoughts and just appreciate and be yourself!......you feel the smile come to your face!

Flat topped like a table, often covered in thick clouds that look like a tablecloth, the mountain invites climbers, hikers and cable car goers to enjoy unparalleled views of Cape Town. It is Cape Town’s favourite natural monument and great landmark.

A mountain with such diversity can inspire you in so many ways. From the valleys of unspoilt fynbos - a world heritage site, the sheer rock cliff faces to climb, gushing waterfalls to gaze at, slow trickling streams to fill up your water bottle, the lush indigenous forests to provide shade ( Hobbit country – is what we call it!)....deep fascinating caves to explore, Disa’s flowering in February, historic reservoirs and waterworks museum, narrow gorges to scramble up and many stories untold to listen to......there is something for every mood.

It seems that time stands still on the mountain, as you take in all the energy and beautiful scene’s.... One can sit on a rock for hours. Maybe this is why Capetonian’s don’t worry about the times as much as they should!.....It’s the fresh mountain air that gets to them.

Although there is an abundance of beauty, one should never take the mountain for granted.....

As the clouds move quickly but majestically over the table top, one gets an overwhelming desire of its unpredictable behaviour. The well worn path ahead disappears into the mist and what once looked familiar turns to fear and the unknown as the harsh rock faces tower over you and the path under your feet disappears......

This is the feeling that should rather be avoided.....always walk with an experienced guide.

From choosing a route, whether it is to scramble, to walk, to run, to climb or to just sit on a rock and see no one for miles, feel the peacefulness and calmness around and absorb the energy the mountain vibrates....just do it!

Take the time out to unwind, to relax, to inspire your soul, to enlighten yourself, to explore, to breathe fresh air, to feel free!

EXPRESS CAPE TOWN – ( One day Big 5 Safari & Table Mountain Walks)

2011-04-04T06:52:00.000-07:00

I was lucky enough to meet a young lady originally from Texas, but currently residing in the concrete jungle of London, England. She had literally stepped off the plane an hour ago and was standing with a friend ready in the hotel foyer, fired up for their first- ever hike up Table Mountain. How’s that for motivation? It was their very first time visiting South Africa and I couldn’t wait to share the beauty that our mountain has to offer. Our starting point was through the spectacular Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens - up the very renowned Skeleton Gorge – and then on to Maclear’s Beacon, before reaching the Upper Cable Station. What a way to start a relationship with Cape Town!

This is a great route up the back of Table Mountain, and is beautifully shaded by the lush indigenous forests, which we were quite grateful for, as we had started late in the morning on a hot day – having had to wait for British Airways to disembark. Doing guided walks up the mountain, I find you really get to know your guests - as there is ample time to talk and more importantly, to listen!

I feel so at home on the mountain that is doesn’t even feel like work. Eventually one feels like you are walking with friends you have known for ages. I think they were both so grateful to be out in nature and the fresh air – something very natural to me! Away from the giant city and its busy life . They were on a work conference, so time was limited during their stay and work was extremely demanding. They had such a great time, looking at beautiful Proteas that had just bloomed, taking in the breathtaking views and smelling the different aromas in the air, that they insisted on more!

Even though they had a tight schedule, we managed to squeeze in one more (early morning) hike up Chapman’s Peak - before work.

I really wanted to share with them the extraordinary views of a different part of Cape Town. With Cape Town’s unpredictable weather, we had a little taste of the howling South Easter, but even that did not spoil our fun. They actually quite enjoyed the wind as they could breathe in more fresh air! Now that’s a half-full glass!

Never having visited Africa, they also wanted a proper African Safari experience - and asked if there was any place in the Western Cape that they could explore this option. They only had Saturday free, but had to board an aeroplane @ 4pm! With the limited time available, I had the perfect solution for them – a one day Big 5 African Safari, literally an hour out of Cape Town. I could not help being excited with them, knowing what was awaiting them! A fantastic adventure – even closer to nature!

Arriving at the gate of the Nature Reserve, we were all quite excited about what we were about to experience. Driving through the gate, a ranger approached us with a very concerned look on his face. He promptly told us that there was a White Rhino further up the road and that we should not stop at all - unless we wanted to be turned upside down! This was a bit concerning for me.......it was not a buck or tortoise in the road......it was a 2 ton Rhino......and he looked like he was in the mood to play rugby!

As we continue, the girls were fumbling in the back trying to get their cameras ready, and not quite sure whether to open the windows . Excitement flushed through the air!....and yes we did make it to the Boma for breakfast and I will leave the rest to your imagination as I couldn’t tell everything.

The whole experience was actually very incredible for them. They had never been into Central Africa or for that matter even been close to any kind or safari. Nothing can describe the feeling you get when you come close to these animals, each one is so individually different in their nature, habits, the way they move, behaviour, camouflage and beauty.

Some interesting facts:

· The 2ton Rhino with its prehistoric appearance and thick hide was in recent decades relentlessly hunted to the point of near extinction. Since 1970 the world rhino population has declined by 90 percent, with five species remaining in the world today, all of which are endangered.

· The awkward giraffe that has the second biggest eye of any mammal (and they do have beautiful eyes and long lashes) has a tongue of 27 inches and the same amount of vertebrae as a human.

· The Zebra with its amazing markings – their coats dissipate 70% of incoming heat and to learn about their cousin the “Quagga”who has become extinct.

· The 6 ton Elephant – the largest and most impressive mammal on land, with its remarkable multifunctional trunk, and tusks that can reach 138 inches & 214 ponds.

· The courageous lion – believe it or not the female does 85% - 90% of the prides hunting, while the males patrol the territory, these animals sleep 16-20 hours a day (now that sounds lovely – I must have been a lion in my previous life!) .

These are only a few interesting facts that you learn through-out the day.

It definitely gives you an introduction and insight into each animal. Unlike a safari up in Africa you get up close to these animals and can enjoy the unforgettable feeling, as even though some of these animals might be more used to humans....they are still instinctively wild animals.

Joanna Jayne - on an unplanned exploration of FRANSCHHOEK – one of the most beautiful valleys in the world.

2011-03-23T05:22:00.000-07:00

Waking up on Sunday realising that Monday was a public holiday, I felt the need to make the most of it. I decided that Capescape needed to explore Franschhoek.

So, I set off with enthusiasm to find places where tour buses can not go. I wanted to go deep off the beaten track.....no crowds!!

Driving down Franschhoek’s Main Street always sets the mood.... the distinct and quaint atmosphere, French restaurants and oak trees lining the street, curio markets, Cape Dutch buildings etc....so I got out to take it in for a minute. I however got straight back in my car to quench my desire to find something new and away from the tourist trap that I had found myself in.

Driving out passing the inspiring Huguenot Monument, I turned onto a little gravel road with a sign that read “La Bri”, only to learn that this was actually one of the oldest farms in the area and was once owned by a French Huguenot in 1694. I quite liked tracing the roots of the first Huguenots that settled in this beautiful valley. And looking around to think of all that happened on this soil and stories that could be told, if only the ancient old oak trees could talk! As I made my way up to the tasting room and cellar I ran into the farm manager, who mentioned to me that there was also an old tasting room on the estate.

Not wanting to miss out on anything that could enhance my experience I enthusiastically asked more. “Come let me show you” was music to my ears. Hastily I followed him through a gap in the hedge onto an open lawn with a beautiful Cape Dutch manor house towering over us. The oak trees gave us ample shade as it was one of those over 30 degrees days in the winelands and not a breath of wind. Fumbling with some keys he made his way to a small doorway covered in ivy, that looked like it hadn’t been opened for years.(which I really don’t think it had). Inside were dusty old wine bottles, stained wine barrels and rusty old farm equipment that was literally covered in cob webs. Breathing in that old musty wine smell, I was beginning to really feel the spirit of the real winelands.

As I drove out over the small bridge I knew I had found a place less frequented and would definitely be back. Continuing along up towards to mountain I found Colmant - Cap Classic & Champagne (Only produce Cape Classic on the estate – and import Champagne) – it might have been the word “champagne” that caught my attention! With a rather fresh, French appearance that was quite welcoming I made my way towards the cellar. Apparently only open by appointment only I thought I would take a chance and see if I could convince them to give me a tasting....well, there was not much convincing as I had timed my visit appropriately well, with another couple. Sipping on some yummy bubbles I was greeted by the wine maker himself, and even managed to order 6 bottles of the best Brut Rose, as I could not miss out – apparently they are sold out 36hours after opening sales – WOW!

Having these bubbles rushing around my head, I just wanted more excitement!!!! Where to next??... Even further up a gravel road to discover a little gem. I knew this was the place where one will never find a tour bus or herds of tourists as driving over a thin “stoney” bridge does not allow for it. Stoney Brook – nestled under the towering mountains with fantastic surroundings. We were greeted by the owner herself. And what a great informative tasting she gave us. Giving us complete insight into each wine and where the name comes from, I must admit she really did quench my thirst for knowledge on wine making and good wine. Enjoying the tranquil, quiet environment and I almost couldn’t leave. Do admire the huge “Ghost Gum” tree before you leave!.....

Driving up the Franschhoek pass to capture the beautiful view over the valley, I couldn’t help but be distracted by the festiveness outside the Haute Cabriere cellar. The barrels under the bright red umbrellas were surrounded by happy smiles and decadent ice buckets of Cap Classic (Champagne)..... Yum!

Walking inside the cellar to order myself a glass, I came across a rather fancy restaurant inside, this was going to be the place for dinner! .....

Settling down outside to enjoy the sunset with my now, bottle of Cap Classic! Taking in the magnificent view, you can’t imagine where else you would rather be.

Dinner was fantastic; the cellar restaurant is built into the flank of the mountain and has a glass wall at the back of the restaurant overlooking the barrels in the cellar. One can order each gourmet dish, either as a starter, or as a full portion. So, if you are not quite sure what to eat, you can try a combination of tastes and order few different dishes, which is exactly what we did. So many different delectable taste sensations!! From fresh Salmon trout bred and grown in the cold mountain streams to succulent lamb and game from the Karoo. The combination of fine wine and food, the elegance of the underground venue and the breath-taking views makes this an unforgettable experience. It may be a touch touristy, but for such delicious food I can make an exception.....and I can see why everyone raves about Franschhoek having some of the best restaurants in the Cape.

This little expedition will not be the last as we have only touched on what the winelands has to offer, so stick around and Capescape will share unique experiences and character boutique wineries, - off the beaten track.

Don’t just be a number, waiting to board a tour bus.....come with us for a decadent and unforgettable experience – on the road much less travelled.

*Joanna Jayne is the Owner of Capescape Private Tours (- and Guided Mountain Walks) and is always keen to explore and share the beauty of the Cape with her clients.

THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF THE WEST COAST

2011-03-17T06:33:00.000-07:00

I woke up one morning feeling an urge to find out more about the West Coast. I dropped into a book shop to collect a guide on the West Coast - and hit the R27. Passing Melkbos, I felt like I had boarded a plane and flown to a remote new destination. Looking around, there is just space and you can drive for miles without seeing a soul. Deserted beaches go on forever; vast sandy dunes and sparse vegetation cover the area as far as the eye can see.

As I had already been driving for over an hour I thought it was about time for a stop. I promptly turned off toward my first stop “Darling”. Known as the flower heaven during flower season, I thought it was worth exploring.

I started at The Darling museum which reflects the lifestyle and growth of the village over the century and a half since its beginnings in 1853. Although museums are not usually my thing, I found this very well done and quite enjoyed the atmosphere of finding myself in the midst of way back then.

The Museum recreates life in a bygone era with fascinating displays of Victorian clothing, china and household furniture. A traditional kitchen complete with hearth contains many ingenious gadgets intended to make the life of a Victorian housewife easier.

By then I was getting thirsty and found Ormonde Wines round the corner (in the town). A small estate with a friendly face to greet you, was just enough to wet the taste buds, with some local flavour - and they have a variety of different wines to suite every palate - at no charge.

And then of course a visit to Darling is not complete without a tour of Evita se Perron, situated at the old Darling Station. A theatre and restaurant, but if you just want to take a look and stroll through the museum/craft and gift shop – a bit of a tongue in cheek approach to South African political history.

One must take a moment to absorb the atmosphere of the town, visit some quaint antique shops and just stand still on the balcony and look around – for a while ....

On your way out, if you feeling a little peckish, stop at Alexanderfontein Estate to visit Darling Olives. You simply can’t miss out on this! Here one can enjoy a delectable tasting of local olives, tapenades, chutneys, jams, cheeses, freshly baked bread – all washed down with their estate wines. Sit around a long table in the old rustic milk barn, where one of the staff tell you all about the products while you taste and taste and taste and taste.............

On my way again back to the R27, I think of the West Coast Fossil Park. I had always heard about it, but never thought of going there. Well, today was the day to explore and do things I would not usually do...so off I went. It was easy enough to find – just follow the signs. It doesn’t look like much when you arrive, as it was once a phosphate mine. Oh my goodness was I overwhelmed at what I found! Believe it or not the West Coast it one of the richest fossil sites in the world. Some fascinating discoveries include sabre-toothed cats, a giant African bear, extinct relatives of the giraffe, three-toed horses and strange looking sivatheres to mention just a few. Today, all these animals have gone, and all we have left is their story told by the fossils that once lay buried in the rock.

The mining buildings have been converted to provide space for displays, a library, lecture room, fossil laboratory, shop and tea room.

One can join a guided tour to visit an actual dig site, and watch how they sort fossils from heaps of soil in the lab. The whole experience gives you an idea of what this area looked like 5 million years ago (who of us ever even think of that??) – This area which now is almost dessert like was once a sub-tropical forest ....fascinating!

So with my new found knowledge and hunger to learn more, I set off imagining all of this around me. Now it was time to hit the coastline. Took the first turn off I could, passing the very unattractive Saldana Steel – not the best tourist route but well worth the drive as you end up at the picturesque fishing village - Jacobsbaai. Lime-washed houses built in traditional west coast style line the shore sprinkled with rocky and sandy beaches. My favourite – there is even a hiking trail (17km) that leads from here to Tietiesbaai, the best way to enjoy this magnificent coast!

There is a great little place to eat (and the only place), looking over the water – enjoy the local cuisine and just relax and take in your surrounds.

Making my way back I drove through Langebaan ( I have been here numerous times) but had to stop and watch the kite boarders!... There is always a great atmosphere here that makes you feel excited – maybe it’s the adrenalin from the kite surfers that breezes though the air!....

Not wanting to go back onto the R27 again so instead I took the back entrance into the West Coast National Park. Suddenly over the rise I come across the biggest heard of Eland I have ever seen, 60-70 eland with calves crossing the road. In awe I just watched as they passed by – what a beautiful site. It made me want to stay and see more, but I was running out of time and had to head back to the hectic city. Just shows you, you could spend days on the west Coast and feel like you are far away. I will definitely be back to explore some more!